The Specs
Most of this stuff is pretty obvious but just in case it's not, we've included more info on the specs here. Dimensions are in millimeters (mm) or grams (g). Yeah, it's metric - stop being a wuss and learn the metric system (you may want to consider learning Mandarin while you're at it). The dimensions are either from original builder specs, other reliable sources or Vintage Classicals measurements. We do not guarantee their acuracy accurracy dang accuracy.

Scale (mm) - distance from nut to saddle. Typical modern classicals are 650 mm. Yamaha and other Japanese builders used 658 mm at one time as that was considered the "professional" scale. Unless you're a professional, the difference between playing a 650 or 658 is negligible. For reference, my hand dimension (outstretched hand - tip of thumb to tip of little finger) is 215 mm and I don't find the 658 difficult to play...but then I'm not a professional (not even close).
Weight (g) - total weight, ready to play, as measured on a food scale. Yeah, it might not be 100% correct but it's probably accurate to 25 grams or so.
Body length (mm) - see figure below, item A.
Nut (mm) - measured across nut longitudinally.
Upper bout (mm) - see figure below, item B.
Waist (mm) - see figure below, item C.
Lower bout (mm) - see figure below, item D.
Depth (mm) - depth of body measured at waist.
Top thickness (mm) - thickness of top measured near soundhole.
Action (mm) - distance from top of fret to bottom of 6th string measured at specified fret. Typical classical guitar action at 12th fret is 3-4 mm.
Neck size (mm) - distance from edge of fretboard, around back of neck, to other edge of fretboard, at the specified fret. This gives some idea of total neck thickness/volume. There is a balance between fatter, stronger neck, more difficult to play and thinner, weaker neck, easier to play.
Natural resonance note - this is an approximate measurement. For the best explanation, that I've found, of what this is see Kent Guitar Classics (they call it body air resonance).
Materials - these are from builder's specs or it may be speculation on our part. Keep in mind that determining a wood species can be tricky even for a woodworker. And, in referring to the top/sides/back, if it doesn't say "solid," it's not.


Why so much detail on low-end guitars?
Because they deserve it. It's easy to blather on and on about high-end guitars, how great they are, how every collector wants them, how every guitarist wants to try least once. But these low-end guitars have survived. Some have survived nearly 50 years through playing, ignoring, dropping, playing some more, storing in a closet, spilling coffee or Chateauneuf-du-Pape, bourbon, tequila. These are the survivors. Imagine the stories they could tell - what they've witnessed. How many times they've been played in candlelight. How many times they've been witness to seduction or attempted seduction - yeah, OK, that's getting a little creepy. Well, you get the idea.

Anyway, of all the guitars built when these were built, these have survived, either through love, lack of love or just pure chance. And someone, somewhere, at one time, made it his job to put these conglomerations of wood together so that they could be enjoyed. Imagine a worker in the 60s-70s assembling one of these instruments. He's wondering whether his work will live on. And yes, here it has. It's your turn to hold on to it for a two or three decades and then pass it on down the road.